Arequipa, Colca Valley and Colca Canyon 

6-9 April 2007

Arequipa

Arequipa, second city of Peru, sits on the edge of the Andes, against a backdrop of volcanic peaks. The white stone of Arequipa, the sillar volcanic rock, gives the city its name. The name Arequipa is derived from the Quecha phrase "ari quepay" meaning "lets stop here". According to local legend that is exactly what the forth Inca emperor, Mayta Capac, said to his generals on the way back to Cusco after one of his conquest trips. The city is situated at the foot of the ice capped volcano - El Misti and close to four other prominent volcanoes - Chacani, Ampato, Coropuna and Pichupichu. Arequipa is said to have the most beautiful setting and best climate of all of Peru's cities.

A wealthy but extremely polarised city has a population of about 750,000. Arequipa maintains a rather aloof attitude towards the rest of Peru feeling distinct and culturally superior to Lima.

We decided to use the Bank Holiday weekend for a trip to Arequipa and the outlying Colca Valley and Canyon.

The flight from Lima was uneventful and we were met at the airport by our transport into the City. We stayed at the En Sueno hotel, a basic but very welcoming Hotel in the heart of the City.

On our first evening we went to see the Museo Santuarios Andinos de la Universidad Catolica de Santa Maria. The museum hosts the display of the Inca ice mummies and a range of archaeological remains. The mummies were sacrificial "princes and princesses" uncovered from their icy ritual graves in September 1995. The grave site was located at the altitude of 6380m on Ampato Volcano and the mummies are estimated to be about 500 years old. Juanita, the most important ice mummy was unfortunately not on display, being only put onto display for the high season.

The website of the museum can be found at 

Santury. Museo de la Universidad Católica de Santa María Arequipa - Peru

Colca Valley and the Colca Canyon

Early the next morning we were picked up at the Hotel en route to the Colca Valley and Canyon.

The road to Chivay, the town we were staying at in the Colca valley, was an interesting experience in itself. The first hour or so of climbing lead into the Reseva Nacional de Aguada Blanca where we saw or first group of vicunas roaming in the pampa.  After passing breeding stations for alpacas and vicunas the next major landmark is the regions highest pass at Patapampa (4800m). This is as high as Mont Blanc and for Cathy a personal height record. The road then descended via an extremely windy road towards the Colca Valley. The first of the fantastic pre-Inca agricultural terraces were now visible with the town of Chivay nestled in amongst them.

Rest was the order for the rest of the day as we got used to the altitude.

The Colca Canyon claims to be the second deepest canyon in the World at more than 1km from cliff edge to the river bottom. The deepest is the nearby Cotahuasi Canyon. The steep terraces are still home to traditional farmers. The valley and canyon were formed by a massive geological fault situated between two enormous volcanoes of Coropuna (6425m) and Ampato (6318m). To the north of the Colca sits Mismo Nevado, a snow capped peak which belongs to the Chila mountain range and is the official source of the Amazon River.

dancing and brass band at Chivay - click on start button

All along the valley there are stunning examples of the pre-Inca terracing. The indigenous communities in this valley form two distinct ethnic groups ; the Aymaru-speaking Collaguas and the Quechua-speaking Cabanas. Traditionally, both groups used different techniques for deforming the heads of their children. The Collaguas elongated them and Cabanas flattened them - each trying to emulate the shape of their respective principal mountain gods. Today, it is the shape of their hats ( taller for Collaguas and round and flat ones for the Cabanas) that distinguishes between the two groups.

After a good nights rest, we woke early ready to drive down the Valley to the head of the Canyon . The weather was good so we hoped that we would see the condors as they set out on the early morning thermals. From Chivay, the first village we passed through was Yanque. There is a grand Baroque-fronted church in the town square. Easter Sunday celebrations were in full swing with the town's brass band as well as traditional dancing around the fountain in the middle of the square. The next town was Maca, a town right on the tremor zone and surrounded by deep fissures in the landscape. The views across the valley were amazing - perhaps the best examples of agricultural terracing in Peru.

A little further down the road, we came to the Mirador Cruz del Condor - the most popular spot for looking down into the depths of the Canyon and we were in luck! Just as we arrived, several condors appeared circling up from the depths against the breathtaking scenery. We spent an hour watching the birds glide effortlessly along the cliff edge in front of us.


 

los condores - click on start button

After the excitement of seeing the birds we then had the long and bumpy ride back to Arequipa.

Arequipa

After a good nights rest back in Arequipa, we set out the next morning to visit some of the memorable sites of the city. The first stop was the suburb of Yanhuara to see the dramatic views across the valley with the volcanoes watching the city from high above. Just two blocks from the central square is the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, a convent which housed almost two hundred nuns and three hundred servants from the late 16th century until it opened its doors in 1970. Its an enormous complex of rooms, cloisters and tiny plazas.

Details and a tour of the convent can be found at Santa Catalina Monastery

The flight to Lima again was uneventful so we arrived back at the guest-house tired but very pleased with our first exploration of the wonderful countryside in Peru.

We have now rented a house in a Condominium complex of 3 houses close to my work. The house is very quiet apart from the occasional party in a nearby garden and secure. The only downside for us is that our present neighbours who have been very friendly and good fun to be with are moving away in June.

Cath has now started some dance classes - salsa dancing which she is enjoying immensely. Cath is also hoping to start some Egyptian Dance lessons soon. David has been busy getting his work project off the ground. It has started really well and now has its own dedicated website for its organisation. Training has also started for a possible mountain trip in July with 3 runs and 3 swims a week - Sunday is rest day! 

In order to celebrate David's birthday we booked a table at one of Lima's most famous restaurants - the Rosa Nautica. The restaurant is at the end of a Brighton beach style pier. Friends Cathy and Ian joined us for what turned out to a really memorable meal. The restaurant had been sensitively restored about 20 years ago but retains the unique character of a Victorian style seaside pier. It is a most unusual feeling to see through the windows  the waves crashing below you. We had been warned that the service was sometimes very slow but we found it to be excellent - the food and drinks arrived on time and the waiters were attentive but not oppressively so. The food was wonderful - a excellent medley of seafood for starters then great main courses. They even had a pie just to make David feel at home. Forgot the camera so sorry no pictures.

Go to Rosa Náutica to see pictures of the restaurant. 

A neighbour in the condominium, Thomas,  kindly cooked a cake which was devoured on the terrace outside the house with wine and music. We also went out on the Labour Day holiday  evening with Yanti, Thomas, Norma and Jonathon  to Miraflores to soak up the atmosphere in the pavement cafes. A late night so the 6am run was cancelled the next day.