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Peru has three distinct zones: coast, highlands,
and jungle providing unbelievable geographical diversity.
The Amazon and its rainforest redefines the
concept of natural beauty, and is something that we could not miss in our year in Peru.
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The Amazonian Rainforest
The river and its rainforest are inseparable. This
couple is one of the last lungs of earth. Biologically is one of the
richest places in the world in biodiversity. According to recently
studies, the Amazon River is the largest in the world, covering
2’300,000 square miles, containing 20% of fresh water of the world.
In the Amazon lives the largest freshwater fish of
the world called Paiche (Arapaima Gigas) which can grow up to 2.50
m. There are about 30,000 types of plants that grow in the Amazon shore,
as well as 4,000 different species of butterflies and 2,000 different
kinds of fish (more than those found in the Atlantic Ocean), 4,000
species of birds, 150 species of reptiles and 361 species of mammals.
This extraordinary biodiversity is the
consequence of the intense rain and the complex topography. This makes
possible the fast growth of tropical plants, like some palms (triartea
bactris euterpe) also other kinds of vegetations like the bromiliaceas,
22 varieties of orchid, and many climbing plants and lianas. It is the
home of Victoria Regia, the largest aquatic plant in the whole world;
its diameter may reach 2 meters.
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The Muyuna Lodge
The Muyuna Lodge were we stayed is located in the
Yanayacu river banks at 140 kms. (84 miles) southeast from Iquitos.
Muyuna is located in the Yanayacu River that means
“black water” (in Quechua—Inca’s language), because of the darkness
given by the minerals that it brings from the highlands. The ten
lakes that are around Muyuna also have black water, making easier the
fishing and bird watching excursions.

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Up the Amazon River
Staff
were waiting for us at the Muyuna lodge counter in Iquitos Airport.
Wellington boots and ponchos were purchased in a hardware store in the
City and then
we made our way to the harbour. A small but very speedy boat was waiting
to take us up the river to the Lodge. The harbour at Iquitos is not
directly on the Amazon River but a tributary of the river. After about 10 minutes we
saw the vast expanse of the Amazon River in front of us. For the next 3
hours we made our way up the river, passing villages and passenger boats
on the way. After turning into the Yanayacu river we soon came to the
lodge to be welcomed by the staff with a cold drink.
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At the lodge
The lodge consists of a series of bungalows on stilts. When
full the lodge can accommodate 50 people. It turned out we were the only
guests staying at this time so we had very special personal service from
the guide and all the staff at the lodge.
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Canoe trips from the lodge
March time is the flood season with the melt water from the Andes
making its way down the Amazon river. Very little of the area around the
lodge was above the water so we explored the jungle with the help of a
motorised canoe. Numerous trips were taken up and down stream to explore
the jungle and witness the sunrise, the sweltering heat of the midday,
sunsets and finally the jungle at night.
Using canoes we ventured to Juanachi Lake. This
is barely accessible because of the many
aquatics plants lining its surface. Because of this it is a haven,
abundant with fauna and flora. Here we saw many birds including parrots, macaws, toucans, egrets, hawks, ducks, etc, also
sloth and several monkeys like the night, squirrel and dusky titi ones.
Giant ceiba trees were passed and we saw the pygmy marmoset, the
smallest monkey in the world.
After being taken by boat back to the
to the Amazon River we were treated to the magical moment of seeing pink
and grey dolphins playing around the boat and on the way back to the lodge,
seeing the biggest aquatic plant in the world, the famous Victoria Regia.
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Fauna
This is a small list of some of the fauna we saw
in our time in the Jungle
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ENGLISH |
SPANISH |
SCIENTIFIC NAMES |
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Speckled caiman |
Lagarto blanco |
Caiman crocodilus |
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Brown throated three toed |
Oso perezoso |
Dradypus variegatus |
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Gray dolphin |
Bufeo negro |
Sotalia fluviatilis |
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Pink river dolphin |
Bufeo colorado |
Inia geoffrensis |
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Brown capuchin monkey |
Mono negro |
Cebus apella |
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Dusky titi monkey |
tocon |
Callicebus moloch moloch |
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Night monkey |
musmuki |
Aotus |
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Common squirrel monkey |
fraile |
Saimiri sciureus boliviensis |
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Pygmy marmoset |
leoncito |
Cebuella pygmaea |
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The Village
San Juan is a small village near the lodge where
approximately 30 families live. Most of the village make their living
from fishing rather than agriculture since the soil here is relatively
poor.
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Iquitos : the city
Iquitos is based in the heart of the Peruvian
Rainforest, located in the northeast of Peru on the banks of the Amazon
River.
Iquitos is accessible only by river-boat or
airplane. At the present time, Iquitos has 400,000 habitants. Iquitos is
a unique city that lives accustomed to its isolation. It expresses
itself in its very particular life style, the colour and joviality that
are shown in its streets and the hospitality of its people, in an
atmosphere in which life passes between the peace of its rainforest and
the progress of the city.
The present centre of Iquitos was established in
1864. By the end of the nineteenth century Iquitos was, along with
Manaus in Brazil, one of the great rubber towns. From that era of
grandeur a number of structures survive but during the last century the
town vacillated between prosperity and the depths of economic
depression. However, its strategic position on the Amazon which makes it
accessible to large ocean going ships from the distant Atlantic has
ensured its importance.
Iquitos evolved into an almost European city during the rubber boom.
Many of the late nineteenth century buildings are decorated with
Portuguese tiles some are which are brilliantly extravagant in their
Moorish inspiration.
On the Plaza de Armas stands the majestic Casa de
Fierro (Iron House) with its hard to miss silvery sides glinting in the
afternoon sun. Designed by Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 Paris exhibition
and later shipped in pieces to Iquitos and reconstructed here in the
1890s by one of the local rubber barons. Many once fine building
surround the Plaza de Armas including the wonderful Art Nouveau Hotel
Palace which is now unfortunately occupied by the Peruvian military
after gutting the interior of the building.
The most memorable part of town is Puerto Belen. This looms out of the
main town at a point where the Amazon until recently joined the Rio
Itaya inlet. Consisting of almost entirely wooden huts raised on stilts
or floating on rafts the district has earned fame as the Venice of the
Peruvian Jungle. Far Eastern than European in appearance with obvious
poverty and little glamour, it has changed little in over its hundred or
so years, remaining a poor shanty settlement trading in basics like
banana, fish turtle and crocodile meat.
After a day exploring the town we spend a
wonderful evening dining at the Al Frio y Al Fuego restaurant.
It’s a stylish restaurant
floating over the river accessible from a 20 minute boat ride. Highly
recommneded. |


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